Well it all went tits up with the T4 just before the MOT, tried to adjust the fuel pump timing but caused another issue so the van started firing out lots of black smoke and running really rough, stalling at idle and hard to start.

Didn’t have enough time to fix it with everything else going on so parked it and planned ahead to what I’m going to try to get the problem solved.

So after a couple of months the first task was to charge the battery so out it went and straight on the charger. While that is going on the front grill is removed and the radiator is released.

Now my plan, I’m going to check the compression on the engine, i had my fingers crossed that I hadn’t burnt out the head gasket or piston rings but I didn’t know without checking. So I need to remove the injectors (old engine so no ecu/wiring to worry about) also while I’m in the area I’m going to replace the glow plugs because number 5 is hard to get to and I’ve never changed it.

So Glow plugs first. Nuts off first for the ring terminal. Some (no 1 and 2 cyl) are easy to get to from above but it’s still a fiddle, 3 and 4 are easy from underneath the engine. Getting them out is tricky but a ring spanner with something to extend it works a treat.

No 5 is the difficult one, the trick is to remove the cover for the fuel pump timing belt and get to it from the side. Unfortunately mine was stuck in and rounded off so the fuel pump had to come off.

The belt is easy to remove but you must use a sprocket holding bar and a breaker bar and 19mm socket.

Holding the sprocket and using the breaker bar releases the central bolt eventually. Then the belts comes off. Make sure the engine is in TDC before this and you can pin the fuel pump into position but not real necessary because the sprocket has to come off to remove the pump. You will need a puller to get it off!

Disconnecting the throttle and “choke” cables is very straightforward. Then the ring terminal comes off the stop solenoid. Taking the fuel delivery pipes lines off are tricky and will need two spanners otherwise the fittings on the pump will turn and you won’t be able to remove the pipes. These pipes connected by plastic clips these don’t undo without breaking so don’t even try. 1-3 came off very easily but 4 and 5 didn’t want to undo so releasing them from the injectors is the last things I can do for now.

The fuel inlet pipe and return are on banjo bolts with a couple of copper washers. Putting the bolts back in after removing the pipes keeps the dirt out of the pump. And the bleed off pipes are pulled off the injectors.

The pump should be held on by 4 bolts, 3 at the sprocket end (front) and one on the back mine only had one bolt on so I have a few to replace using my box of bits and pieces.

Lifting the pump out with two pipes still attached can only be done by removing the vacuum pump this has a lot of oil in it but two 13mm nuts it is released. There is a connecting rod in the head and will drop out when you lower the vacuum pump so be careful not to drop it and in TDC there is a lot of spring pressure here so be aware.

Pump is lifted out but remember it is full of fuel so keep it upright.

Now the pump is out of the way I can get a proper socket on the 5th glow plug. And out it comes

It was pretty burnt out

Next I manage to remove the two stuck pipes on the fuel pump using my bench and various tools to get the leverage. Using my bench disc sander I managed to repair fittings but if you remove your be careful there is a spring inside them and maybe some spacers. Taking these off clearly shows how small the fuel path is ( I didn’t get a picture this time but is as small as a needle hole) so you must keep the fuel system as clean as possible or you’ll get blockages!

Next out comes the injectors, you don’t need an injector removal socket but you do need the long reach socket to get to them. I kept these in cylinder order. Now time to re fit the battery, pull the glow plug relay (102 on mine) and fit the compression tester. You need to have a good visual on the gauge while you turn the engine over so see how fast or not the pressure rises so you can diagnose any problems. Every cylinder of mine came up fast and good so great news no problems with the engine. All my smoke and rough running must be from the fuel system.

Checking the injectors found they were a little bit dirty especially no 5 so with my brass wire bush I gave them a good clean. Refitting in the correct places is easily done so checking the torque on each in turn as well as the glow plugs. Then refitting the ring terminals. In goes the fuel pump with some new bolts, on goes the pipe, solenoid wire, throttle and choke cables. The bleed off pipes go back on the injectors with the end blank replaced because I found a small split. The fuel pump needed topping up with fuel (a large syringe is very handy here) in through the top return pipe connection. On go the fuel pipes with the banjo bolts (be very careful here because they can’t take much torque). On go the sprocket making sure the key is in place on the shaft then the pump is pined in its correct position.

Setting the timing is very straightforward if you have the correct Dial test gauge for diesel pumps (make sure it’s free to move and not jammed) setting to 1mm (lots of videos on this). Tightening everything up (rotate the engine to get the vacuum pump refitted), finished off the job. Turned the key and the engine fires up after a couple of spins and runs sweet with no smoke or rough running. Have no idea what is was but looks like cleaning the system, replacing the glow plugs and fixing a couple of minor issues solved the major problem.

I’ll take the wins whenever they come.